Pontevedra – 11 miles
The majority of the walk today was great. At our first café stop the lady who was setting out the chairs had to wake up the café owner to serve us, even though it was almost 1/2 hour after the posted opening time. We walked through forest and climbed a bit, but the rest places and cafés were spaced much farther apart than I like. It rained all day again, which made the lack of warm resting places worse. Tonight we are staying at a private pension (kind of like a bed and breakfast) because the albergue is outside of the town center. We have our own room, but no private bathroom. While looking for place to stay, we wandered through the town on tired feet while the rain beat down on us. It was really rough. I have showered and we found a tv channel with English. TV is fun for something different until we eat dinner. My heels are very sore and I am a little worried about the blisters on my two littlest toes on both feet, literally, I have a blister that has blisters. Despite the groans from my body and the rain outside, my spirits are good. I am so fortunate to be here.
We had a lovely diner that did not consist of ham and cheese and are feeling much better.
I can tell, from reading my journal entry, that I was trying to convince myself to stay positive because the rain was brutal I felt beat down and tired. Going back to that morning at the café with the sleeping owner, I am pretty sure she hated our guts for waking her up, but other pilgrims came shortly after and she got some business. Before the other pilgrims came, we saw Roger walk up! He had breakfast with us and went on his way. With his pace and endurance, he was scheduled to get to Santiago two days before us. Bye Roger, it was great to know you.
My journal description of the pension, is not quite accurate. There was no breakfast at the place we stayed. It was like we were in a room in someone’s apartment. We were still weary of the sheets from crazy bed bug stories so we slept in our sleeping bags. We asked the woman of the house if we could pay when we checked in because we wanted to leave early and had no clue when they would be awake. She didn’t understand us and told us to pay downstairs where the restaurant was. The restaurant was very nice and had a full real menu. It was more of a bar actually, as was every restaurant. The lady who was working was so nice to us and brought us a delicious dessert. We tried to pay for our room at the restaurant and that woman thought we were crazy. Back in our room, we were freezing. We couldn’t get the heater to work and Paul found the woman of the house and asked how to turn it on, she said the heat didn’t come o until 10:30 pm, so we bundled up the best we could. Later she knocked on our door with a space heater in her hand and we tried one more time, we gave her money and asked her to stamp our pilgrims passport. After Tuí, you need two stamps per day to prove you’ve walked the Camino. She asked for our real passports and said that her husband could stamp our pilgrims passports. She indicated that she was going out and she took our passports with her. We were very nervous about this. I did not want to be separated from my real passport, but couldn’t communicate this with her. We just had to hope for the best. Later in the night she brought back all of our passports and paperwork and gave us our stamps.